The Perfection of the Pleat: The Global Legacy of Din Tai Fung

Din Tai Fung is more than just a restaurant; it is a global masterclass in culinary precision and consistency. While today it stands as a world-renowned brand with over 170 locations across 13 countries, its beginnings were remarkably humble. Founded in Taipei in 1958 by Yang Bing-Yi, the business originally operated as a retail shop for cooking oil. When the rise of tinned oil threatened their livelihood in the early 1970s, Yang and his wife transitioned half of their shop to selling xiao long bao (soup dumplings). The popularity of these delicate dumplings was so immediate that the oil business was eventually phased out entirely, giving birth to a culinary icon in 1972.

The hallmark of the Din Tai Fung experience is the rigorous attention to detail applied to every dish, particularly their signature xiao long bao. Each dumpling is a work of engineering, crafted according to a strict “Golden Ratio”. Chefs must ensure that every piece of dough weighs exactly 5 grams and is filled with precisely 16 grams of stuffing. The most famous requirement, however, is the “18 folds”—each dumpling is hand-pleated with no fewer and no more than 18 folds to ensure a perfect seal and structural integrity. This meticulous process is often performed in glass-walled kitchens, allowing diners to witness the disciplined choreography of the chefs as they produce thousands of dumplings a day.

This commitment to quality earned the brand unprecedented international acclaim. In 2010, Din Tai Fung’s Silvercord branch in Hong Kong was awarded a Michelin star, a rare and prestigious honor for a casual dining chain. The branch has since maintained its reputation for excellence, receiving the star multiple times over the years. Beyond Hong Kong, the brand has become a staple in major Chinese cities and global hubs like New York, London, and Tokyo, consistently drawing long queues of patrons eager to taste its refined menu.

While the xiao long bao remains the star, the menu has expanded to include high-quality staples such as shrimp fried rice, braised beef noodle soup, and spicy wontons. Even as it grows into a massive the new yorker deli international operation, the company remains largely family-owned, resisting public offerings to maintain absolute control over the quality that defined its original Taipei shop. For diners in 2026, a visit to Din Tai Fung continues to offer a reliable, world-class encounter with Taiwanese tradition, where the simple dumpling is elevated to an art form.